Planning a coaster set, ring dish or batch of keyrings? Start with the mould, since its shape and depth determine how the finished resin piece will look. You may see both spellings while shopping online: resin moulds is the Australian and British spelling, while resin molds is more common in American English. Our range includes the shapes Australian makers regularly use for coasters, trays, earrings, alphabet letters and small figures.

Choosing a mould by what you want to make

It is easier to choose a resin mould once you know what you are making. Flat, shallow moulds suit coasters and trinket dishes, while serving trays need more depth and raised edges. If you are making earrings, letters or charms in matching batches, a multi-cavity mould will save time.

Standard silicone moulds can be used with epoxy and UV resin at room temperature. Polymer clay is different because the mould may need to go into the oven, so check that it is specifically labelled as bakeable silicone. Once you have chosen the mould, you can find resin, mixing equipment and other essentials in our resin craft supplies range.

Coaster and tray moulds

Coasters are a sensible first resin project because they use a manageable amount of resin and are easy to demould. Round options such as the Ribtex Resin Silicone Mould Coaster produce a clean edge without awkward corners. For a more structured coaster set, the Urban Crafter Silicone Square Mould Coaster 13x13x1cm is worth considering. Geode and geometric shapes suit makers who want irregular edges or plan to add metallic leaf.

For larger pieces, the Urban Crafter Handle Tray Silicone Mould Round creates a practical serving tray with built-in handles. The Urban Crafter Silicone Mould Tray Large Geode Rectangle Platter is better suited to a decorative coffee-table piece. Whichever style you choose, check that the base sits flat and the edge has enough height to contain the pour.

Jewellery and small moulds

Small moulds are useful when you are learning because a mistake costs less resin. The Urban Crafter Earring Kit gives you matching shapes without requiring separate moulds and findings. If you prefer statement jewellery, the Ribtex Resin Silicone Mould Hoop Earrings produces lightweight hoops that can be tinted, decorated or left clear.

Alphabet moulds are handy for personalised keyrings and name tags. The Ribtex Resin Silicone Mould A-Z covers the full alphabet, while individual designs such as the Urban Crafter Large Alphabet Silicone Mould K can also be used to make shelf decor. For clear, even colour, browse our pigments and dyes.

How much resin each mould needs

Estimating the volume before mixing helps prevent wasted resin or a half-filled mould. Product measurements give you a useful starting point, although an irregular shape can make the actual capacity difficult to calculate.

The water-fill method is the most reliable option. Make sure the mould is empty and dry, fill it with water, then pour that water into a measuring jug to check the volume. Dry the mould thoroughly afterwards because any remaining moisture can interfere with the resin.

Prepare about 10 percent more resin than the measured capacity. A small amount will remain on the sides of the mixing cup and stirrer, so the extra gives you enough to complete the pour. It also helps to choose a casting resin kit that suits the scale of your project instead of opening a large kit for one small piece.

Preparing a mould and using release agents

Before each pour, check the mould under good light and wipe it with a soft, lint-free cloth. A strand of hair or speck of dust may look insignificant at this stage, yet it can leave a visible mark in the cured surface.

Most silicone moulds release cured resin without additional spray. Release agents are generally useful for moulds with deep undercuts or a high level of detail, where the finished piece may grip the silicone. For an ordinary coaster, tray or jewellery mould, you can usually skip this step.

Place the mould on a completely level surface before mixing. Resin will settle according to the surface underneath it, and even a slight tilt can leave one side thicker than the other. Having your resin tools and accessories ready beforehand also means you will not have to search for equipment after the working time has started.

How long to leave resin to cure

Curing time is determined mainly by the type of resin, the brand and the depth of the pour. As a general guide, epoxy resin may become touch dry within a few hours and usually reaches full cure between 24 and 72 hours. UV resin can cure within minutes under a UV lamp, although it works best in thin layers that allow the light to pass through.

Use the instructions on your particular epoxy resin as the final guide. A piece can usually be demoulded when the surface feels firm rather than tacky and the edges separate cleanly as you flex the silicone. Removing it too early can leave fingerprints, bent edges or a permanently distorted shape.

Getting the piece out without damaging the mould

Give the resin its full recommended curing time before attempting to remove it. Once it is ready:

1. 1. 1. Flex the outside of the mould gently to loosen the seal around the edges.
      2. Begin at a corner or the thinnest part of the piece.
      3. Push carefully from underneath rather than pulling the resin from above.
      4. Keep metal tools away from the silicone because they can leave permanent nicks.

If the piece still refuses to move, place the entire mould in the freezer for 15 to 20 minutes. The slight contraction of the cured resin often makes it easier to release.

Looking after silicone moulds

Wash silicone moulds between pours using warm soapy water and a soft cloth. Isopropyl alcohol can gradually damage the surface, so it is best avoided. Let the mould air dry completely before putting it away.

Storage affects the life of a mould more than many beginners expect. Keep each one flat, away from direct sunlight and protected from dust. Heavy items placed on top may distort the silicone and affect future pours. Replace a mould once it starts tearing, loses fine detail or leaves a cloudy finish on cured resin.

Makers who want completely original shapes can also explore our mould making supplies.

Working safely with resin

Use resin in a well-ventilated room, preferably near an open window or beside a fan that directs air away from you. Wear nitrile gloves to prevent skin contact, as repeated resin exposure can lead to sensitisation. Safety glasses are also recommended while measuring, mixing and pouring.

Handling requirements differ between products. Read the safety directions on the resin bottle you are using and follow the manufacturer’s instructions for ventilation, protective equipment, cleanup and disposal.

Frequently asked questions

What can I make with resin moulds?

Common projects include coasters, trays, jewellery, keyrings, ornaments and small decorative figures. Choose the mould according to the finished object: shallow shapes work well for coasters, trays need deeper edges, and multi-cavity designs are convenient for earrings or pendants.

Can I use the same mould for epoxy and UV resin?

Standard silicone moulds generally work with either type. Depth is the main consideration. UV light must reach the resin for it to cure properly, which makes UV resin better suited to shallow shapes and jewellery. Epoxy resin is usually the better option for deeper coaster and tray pours.

How many times can I reuse a silicone mould?

A well-maintained silicone mould can often be reused for dozens of pours. Its working life depends on the mould quality, the resin being used and how gently the piece is removed. Clean it after use, allow it to dry and store it flat. Tearing, lost detail or new marks on cured pieces are signs that it is time for a replacement.

Do I need mould release spray with silicone moulds?

Usually, you can save your money. Cured resin separates naturally from ordinary silicone coaster, tray and jewellery moulds. A small amount of release spray may help with highly detailed shapes or deep undercuts where the resin is more likely to catch.

What is the difference between resin moulds and resin molds?

The meaning is identical. “Mould” is standard in Australian and British English, while “mold” is the American spelling. Both versions appear on product packaging and in online searches. One example is the Sculpey Bakeable Silicone Mold range.

How do I stop bubbles in a resin mould?

Mix slowly so you do not whip extra air into the resin, then leave the mixture to stand briefly before pouring. Once the mould is filled, pass a heat gun or kitchen torch quickly across the surface to release visible bubbles. Keep the heat source moving to avoid damaging the resin or silicone. Working in a warm room can also help because cold resin is thicker and tends to hold more air.

Can I put a silicone mould in the oven?

Only use a silicone mould in the oven when the packaging identifies it as bakeable. Standard silicone resin moulds are intended for room-temperature casting and may not tolerate oven heat. Bakeable versions are made for polymer clay and should state the appropriate temperature limits on the label.

Which resin mould is best for beginners?

A small round coaster or simple pendant mould is a practical place to begin. Shallow, single-cavity designs require less resin and are easier to fill evenly. After you are comfortable measuring, mixing, pouring and demoulding, larger trays and multi-cavity jewellery moulds become much easier to manage.